In New York City, where bagel shops are ubiquitous, every true New Yorker has their favorite spot for a lox and cream cheese bagel. For celebrity chef and television personality Andrew Zimmern, that spot is Russ & Daughters. “I order from there nearly every month. I’m hooked,” Zimmern shared on TikTok.
Zimmern reminisced about his first visit to Russ & Daughters at the age of five, stating that his life “changed forever.” He mentioned that his family has been frequenting the deli for five generations.
Although the terms are often used interchangeably, it’s important to note that lox is not the same as smoked salmon. It specifically refers to salmon belly that has been cured in a salty brine. Conversely, gravlax is a traditional Nordic recipe consisting of salmon cured with salt, sugar, and dill.
The rich history of the bagel originated in Eastern Europe and was brought to America through immigration, particularly within the Jewish community. Russ & Daughters’ origins in New York trace back to 1901 when founder Joel Russ emigrated from present-day Poland and began selling schmaltz herring from a barrel on the Lower East Side. In 1935, he named all three of his daughters partners and rebranded the business as Russ & Daughters. Today, the deli is celebrated for its extensive selection of cured and smoked fish, along with bagels.
This Upper West Side bagel shop ranks as Andrew Zimmern’s second favorite.
For his second favorite lox and bagel joint in New York City, Zimmern stated that Barney Greengrass comes in a close second to Russ & Daughters. The chef has been visiting this deli since childhood, as his grandmother lived just a few blocks away.
Zimmern prefers Barney Greengrass for a different ambiance. The establishment offers limited seating and a breakfast menu that includes eggs, coffee, and freshly squeezed orange juice, rather than just a typical deli counter. He also mentioned that it’s a popular spot for celebrity sightings, citing occasions when Jerry Seinfeld and Larry David were seen “huddling and giggling” in a corner.
Like Russ & Daughters, Barney Greengrass boasts a remarkable history in New York City, having been opened by its namesake owner in Harlem in 1908. The shop later relocated to its current location on Amsterdam Avenue in 1929. Since then, the deli has been serving up cherished smoked fish, liver, and bagels. They are particularly renowned for their sturgeon, known for its firm and delicious texture, as well as being the source of caviar, particularly their smoked sturgeon that pairs exquisitely with their fresh bagels.